For lots of backpackers the route after Chiang Mai carries on to Pai, the mountain village about 130 kilometres to the northwest. On the map that is nothing. In practice it takes you three hours, and that is down to one notorious number: 762 bends.
That road is why this ride has become a story of its own. Everyone who arrives in Pai has an opinion about it, and that opinion is usually about how the ride felt rather than how long it took. It is not a hard journey, but it is not one to hop on without thinking about it either.
You have four options: the minibus, a bigger bus, riding a scooter yourself, or the little plane. Below is what each one costs, what you get for it and who it suits. What to do once you are in Pai is in the things to do in Pai.
The minibus
For most backpackers this is the answer. The minibus leaves Chiang Mai several times a day, takes about three hours and costs around €5. You get in, you get out, done.
On the way you ride straight through the mountains, which is beautiful in itself, as long as you are looking out of the window and not at your phone. Book your ticket in advance, especially in high season between November and February: then there is nothing left to sort out on the day and you get more choice of departure times.
One thing: try to sit up front. At the back of a minibus those bends hit twice as hard, and on this ride that is not a small detail.
Our verdict: the easiest and cheapest option, and the right one for nine out of ten backpackers
The big bus
Depending on what is running on your travel day, there is sometimes a bigger bus to Pai as well. More legroom, less crammed, and for tall people or anyone who struggles in tight spaces that makes a noticeable difference.
On the other hand, the ride usually takes a bit longer and there are fewer departures. Some days nothing runs at all. So check beforehand what is actually going, and do not count on it as a fixed option.
Our verdict: a nice alternative when there is a good connection
Riding a scooter yourself
This is the most beautiful way to arrive in Pai, and also the way most things go wrong here. Both are true.
The route through the mountains is stunning and you stop wherever you like: at viewpoints, coffee stops and lookouts the minibus races straight past. You leave when you want, you take as long as you want, and for lots of people this is the best riding day of their whole trip.
The catch is big enough to spell out: only do this if you have experience and the right paperwork. The road has sharp bends, serious climbs and descents, and traffic you do not always see coming. In Thailand you also need an international driving permit, and they check for it in the north. If you have barely been on a scooter, this is not the road to learn on. There is a reason Pai has its own name for the graze on your leg: the Pai tattoo.
If you do ride, wear long trousers and proper shoes even though it is hot, wear a helmet, and when you pick the bike up take photos of every scratch that is already on it. And never hand over your passport as a deposit.
Our verdict: the best ride of your trip if you know what you are doing, and a bad idea if you still have to learn
The little plane
Pai has a tiny airstrip with flights to and from Chiang Mai. You are there within half an hour and you skip all 762 bends.
For backpackers it is usually not the obvious choice, because it costs many times the €5 of a minibus and flights are limited. But it exists, and if you really cannot handle bends or you are short on time, it is a real option instead of three miserable hours.
Our verdict: a lifesaver if winding roads do not agree with you
About those 762 bends
This is the part you can do something about in advance, so do it.
The road between Chiang Mai and Pai twists up and down through the mountains for three hours without a break. People who never normally get car sick sometimes feel rough on this ride anyway, and in the back of a full minibus that is unpleasant for everyone.
Take something for motion sickness, even if you never normally need it. Do not eat anything heavy just before you leave. Sit up front if you can, and look outside rather than down. That is the whole list, and it works.
And be aware: the bends do not stop at Pai. Carry on around the Mae Hong Son loop and you get another 1,864 of them in a big circle through the mountains.
What to do with your backpack
If you are taking a scooter to Pai, you are stuck with your big bag. Riding for hours through the mountains with a full backpack on is awkward, and it shifts your centre of gravity at exactly the moments you do not want it to.
Ask your scooter rental shop or your hostel about having your big luggage sent on to Pai separately, or leave it in Chiang Mai if you are coming back that way anyway. On the scooter, take only what you really need for those days.
What is the best way to get from Chiang Mai to Pai?
The minibus, for almost everyone. Three hours, around €5, several departures a day and nothing else to think about. Book it in advance in high season, sit up front and bring something for motion sickness. Then it is simply a beautiful ride through the mountains.
If you have real scooter experience and an international driving permit, it is a different story. Then this is one of the most beautiful road trips you can do in Thailand, and taking the minibus would be a waste. But be honest with yourself about that experience: this road is not the place to find out how a scooter works.
And the moment you arrive, you will probably get why nearly every backpacker makes this trip. Then all that is left is deciding how many days to stay, and chances are it will be more than you planned.
