Tioman is an island you get to know on foot. Along the concrete path in Air Batang, over the rocks of the coastal path to Salang, and one morning straight through the rainforest to the other side. In between you get in the water, because here the coral is often just a few strokes from the beach.
What makes Tioman special is that you do not have to choose between jungle and sea. You can walk among giant trees in the morning and float above parrotfish in the afternoon, without ever getting in a car. In Air Batang there is not even one.
So which days do you keep for the jungle, which for the water, and what do you do if you tack on an extra one?
Where to sleep, how to get there and how many days you need are all on our Tioman page.
The jungle trek from Tekek to Juara
This is the walk you come to Tioman for. You start on the west coast in Tekek and finish on the east coast in Juara, and in between are about seven kilometres of real rainforest with three hundred metres of climbing. Giant trees, screeching monkeys, a monitor lizard vanishing into the leaves, and if you are lucky a hornbill overhead.
Allow two to three hours on foot. Start early, because the trail has no lights and you want to reach Juara well before dark. Take two litres of water and wear closed shoes: there are snakes on the island, and this is no path for flip flops.
The best part of the trek is the end. You come out of the forest and you are standing on the best beach on the island. Leave your big pack in your village, and when your legs are done, head back by 4x4 or water taxi.
Our verdict: the day that sets Tioman apart from every other island on the east coast
A night in Juara
Juara is Tioman’s east side: a long bay of white sand, a few chalets, and mostly just peace. By day it is a lovely beach. But the reason to sleep here comes early in the morning, when the sun rises over the South China Sea and you have the beach to yourself.
From February to October turtles nest here, and the Juara Turtle Project looks after them. A visit to the project turns your beach afternoon into something more. And if you happen to come in the monsoon, from November to February, Juara is the island’s only surf spot.
Combine it with the jungle trek: walk there, stay a night and take the 4x4 back the next day. That way you get the sunrise without having to get there in the dark.
Our verdict: sleep there at least one night, because the morning is the whole point
The coastal path from ABC to Salang
From Air Batang a path runs north along rocks, little coves and the water. On the way you pass Monkey Beach and Monkey Bay, and right at the halfway point there is a good snorkel spot. You need no guide and no plan, just time.
Allow about three hours with stops. Take your snorkel set, so you can get straight in at Monkey Bay. The last stretch to Salang is steeper than the rest: take your time there and think of the cold beer waiting at the end.
Salang itself is the liveliest village on the island, with more bars and the barbecue at night. Back to ABC you take a water taxi.
Our verdict: walking, swimming and snorkelling in one half day, no guide or tour needed
Snorkelling off the jetty and at Renggis
In plenty of places, Tioman’s coral is within swimming distance. Off the ABC jetty you are among the parrotfish in no time, and at Salang, in Monkey Bay and around the little island of Pulau Renggis you find more coral and fish, with a chance of turtles.
A snorkel set costs from about €3 a day. Rent one for your whole stay straight away, because you will use it every day, even if you were not planning to.
Do not stand on the coral or touch it, not even for a second to catch your breath. That way it looks just as good for the next snorkeller.
Our verdict: a day full of fish does not get any cheaper than this
Getting your dive certificate
Tioman is one of the cheapest places in Malaysia to learn to dive. You get your Open Water here from about €200 in four days, on calm sites just off the coast. There are dive schools in ABC, Salang and Tekek, so you never have to walk far.
Already certified? A fun dive costs from about €20. Visibility underwater is at its best at the start of the dry season. The season runs from March to October; in the monsoon most schools close.
Pick your school on the feel of the first chat. That tells you more about your course than the price on the board.
Our verdict: if you want to learn to dive, this is almost too good to pass up
Asah Waterfall near Mukut
In the south of the island is the little village of Mukut, and behind it Asah Waterfall drops into a pool you can swim in. You get to Mukut by boat and then walk a short jungle path.
Allow half a day. The waterfall is often part of a boat trip round the island, and that is the nicest way to do it: other travellers on the boat and Tioman’s coastline sliding past. Above Mukut rise the island’s bare granite peaks, and nowhere do you see them this close.
Our verdict: a lovely half day, at its best as part of a boat trip round the island
Got time to spare on Tioman?
A boat trip to Coral Island
Further offshore is Coral Island, Pulau Tulai. A small boat takes you there for half a day of snorkelling, often combined with Renggis. A good way to fill your fourth day if you are not diving.
Sunset on the west coast
ABC and Salang are on the west side of the island, so the sun drops straight into the sea in front of you. Find a spot by the path along the sea late in the afternoon and then just eat where you are sitting.
Ikan bakar and the Salang barbecue
The fish comes off the boat in the morning and is on the charcoal grill by evening. Order ikan bakar at a warung by the path, or head to the seafood barbecue in Salang. Breakfast the way the islanders do: nasi lemak, or roti canai with curry for dipping.
A duty-free beer on the beach
Tioman is duty-free, and a can of beer from the shop costs less than a euro. Pick one up and take it to the beach for sunset. Just do not be surprised when a bottle of water costs the same.
Our top five on Tioman
Got three or four days? Our five for Tioman:
- The jungle trek from Tekek to Juara, starting early with two litres of water
- A night in Juara for sunrise over the South China Sea
- The coastal path from ABC to Salang, with a snorkel stop in Monkey Bay
- Snorkelling every day, off the ABC jetty or around Pulau Renggis
- A try dive or two fun dives, or your Open Water straight away
Still got a day after that? Take a boat trip past Asah Waterfall at Mukut, or a boat out to Coral Island.
So what do you really have to do on Tioman?
That trek through the jungle. You can happily spend a few days on Tioman snorkelling and hanging out by the path in ABC, but then you miss what makes this island different: that in one morning you walk from one coast to the other, through rainforest with monkeys and hornbills, and finish on a beach that is almost empty.
Then stay the night there too. Juara at sunrise is the moment you take home from Tioman, with the surf in front of you and the birds in the forest behind you.
And keep the rest of your days light. A snorkel set for your whole stay, a walk to Salang, a beer from the duty-free shop at sunset. Tioman needs nothing more to keep you there a few days longer.
